How to roof a metal tile

Material selection

Before starting to work independently, it is necessary to determine the type of metal tile that is best suited for specific climatic conditions and suit the home owner for the price.

The protective properties of this material largely depend on the composition and quality of its coating. The building materials market provides buyers with the opportunity to choose metal roofing having the following types of protective coatings:

  • Polyester is a type of coating that can be called universal: it perfectly withstands temperature drops, is resistant to corrosion and can be used in any climatic zone; the cost of such a metal tile is in the middle price segment.
  • Matte polyester has an attractive appearance, has a rich natural color, perfectly tolerates high temperatures, but the cooling below minus 10 degrees is undesirable for himtherefore, it is advisable to use it in an area with a warm climate.
  • Postizol is a material of the previous generation of roofing metal-tiled coatings. It resists corrosion well, does not change its properties under the influence of ultraviolet radiation and is relatively inexpensive.
  • Granite chips - a protective coating, which includes polyurethane and granite particles. It will provide excellent resistance of metal to mechanical and thermal effects, the influence of UV rays, but its cost is quite high.
  • Aluminum and zinc coating is one of the oldest and proven methods of protection. Inexpensive at the price, it allows you to reliably protect metal tile from external influences and ensure its long service life.
  • Polyurethane will give the material soundproofing properties, which is especially important for homes with a residential attic floor.

Rules for working with metal tiles

Working with this roofing material is easy, following certain rules.

Cutting metal sheets produced

  • hand-held power saw with carbide teeth;
  • electric or professional hand scissors;
  • punching scissors for metal, which for ease of cutting are right and left.

Cutting metal roofing with an abrasive disc (grinder) is absolutely impossible, since it automatically leads to damage to the protective layer and the removal of guarantees for the service life of the roof covering.

Metal shavings and debris must be carefully removed from the sheets of metal with a dry soft brush. The scratches of the polymer coating resulting from the movement of sheets can be slightly tinted with a special spray paint.

Lifting sheets to the roof is carried out using the guides of the two boards. It is forbidden to stand under the roofing sheet during its lifting. Since the finished sheets during their ascent to the roof are subject to the danger of moving with a sudden gust of wind, it is forbidden to lift them on a rope.

Creation of hydro and vapor barrier layer

To ensure ventilation of the roofing space, a properly mounted hydro and vapor barrier layer is important.

The vapor barrier film is used to prevent water vapor from entering the interior of the house in the insulation and is laid directly on the insulation subject to the following conditions:

  • The film is attached to the frame with metal brackets using a stapler or galvanized nails with a wide cap.
  • All overlaps, as well as the places of contact of the film with protruding structural elements, ventilation and chimneys, antennas, must be hermetically glued using double-sided self-adhesive tape. Chimneys before they stick the film, it is necessary to isolate the insulation.
  • On top of the film to the frame nailed slats kontrbretki They fasten the interior. When using a vapor barrier with an aluminum layer between the vapor barrier film and the interior trim, a gap of at least 20 mm must be left.

It is recommended to use insulants based on fiberglass and basalt fiber as a thermal insulation material for cattle roofing. Laying insulation is performed continuously vrazbezhku rows with alternating layers laid up and down to avoid the formation of cold bridges.

It is recommended to use diffusion membranes as a waterproofing for a metal-tiled roof. Their laying is made as follows:

  • The waterproofing film is spread along the eaves with an overlap of rows of about 150 mm and is attached to the rafters with staples of a construction stapler.
  • On top of the film, along the rafters, are bars of a counterbribe with a cross section of 50 x 40 mm.
  • The cross-bars of the contra-lattice are mounted over the longitudinal ones in increments corresponding to the pitch of the metal tile. As a batten, it is recommended to use a cut board with a thickness of 20-40 mm, or a bar with a section of 50 x 50 mm.

Providing additional protection for the under-roof space

To protect the lower edge of the batten from the effects of precipitation, an eaves-drip bar is used. It is attached to the crate with screws or galvanized nails in a checkerboard pattern every 300 mm. Overlap slats in length - 100 mm.

To protect the under-roof space from birds and insects, as well as to protect insulation from weathering along the eaves, a mesh ventilation tape is attached to the rafters. For the same purpose, after mounting the eaves on the last row of crates attach the comb.

Installation of the main roof slope

It is possible to cover a rectangular slope with sheets both from right to left and from left to right, starting from the right angle formed by the lines of the cornice and gables.The longitudinal wave lock of each roofing sheet should be covered with a subsequent sheet. Sheets of metal are fastened to the crate with special galvanized screws with a self-drilling tip and a sealing washer made of EPDM rubber.

Sheets of metal should be aligned horizontally strictly horizontally along the line of the cornice with an overhang of 50 mm over the batten of the cornice.

With the help of a screwdriver, screws must be screwed into the grid strictly vertically into the wave deflection, at the points of contact with the crate, as close as possible to the transverse step of the sheet of metal tile.

It is recommended to bleed the horizontal slope according to the following scheme: first, put three sheets of metal tile - 2 below and one above the bottom right. Sheets are aligned along the slope, and then fixed. Subsequent sheets are stacked, aligned and secured in the same way. Flooring rows carried out in cascade.

End and wind strips are attached to the end board from the bottom up with an overlap of 100 mm in length and a fastening step of 350 mm.

Laying metal tiles on the valley

In the valley and the junction of the roof to the wall, as well as in the areas of the subsequent location of the snow guards, around chimneys, dormer windows, there is a continuous crate from the board or additional bars.

In the inner corners, formed by two ramps in the valley, on the continuous crate from the board, on both sides, are attached to the valley valley. This is done with the help of metal brackets with a pitch of 300 mm. The overlap of the valley ends should also be 300 mm. A porous seal is glued along the edges of the strip on both sides along the length. It is prohibited to mount end-to-end to the crate at a distance closer than 250 mm from the axis of the endova.

The lining of the valley is attached over a wave of sheets of metal tile with a 300 mm pitch on each side. After mounting the sheet metal, the junction is closed by the junction bar. The overlap of the junction along the length is 100 mm.

A porous seal is glued between the sheet of metal tile and the junction bar. Strong sealing tape and roofing sealant are used for additional sealing of the junction to the wall.

Installation of ridge strip

The ridge rail is mounted using a universal mount for a ridge spinal bar, which is installed along the ridge ridge with a pitch of 500-600 mm.

To ensure the ventilation of the under-roof space, the sheets of metal tile from the adjacent slopes of a double-slope roof should not converge close to each other under the ridge strip.They are attached without reaching the bar 50 mm.

In order to avoid precipitation through this gap and, at the same time, natural roof ventilation was carried out through it, along all ridge ridges it is necessary to put a rolled aero element of durable non-woven material. Installation of a roll element with butyl rubber self-adhesive strips should be carried out at an air temperature not lower than + 5 degrees.

For these purposes, it is also allowed, but with much lower efficiency, the use of a porous sealant that is attached before attaching the ridge strip over the sheets of metal tile.

The ridge board can be attached to the ridge bar with roofing screws 35 mm long or to the crate through sheets of metal tile with screws 50 mm long at the top of every second wave.

The overlapping of the slats of the semicircular ridge is carried out along the stiffening ribs. Overlap straight ridge slats - 100 mm.

Installation of additional elements of the roof

  • Snow traps. To prevent spontaneous snow in unwanted places, for example, above the entrance, as well as to protect gutters, tubular snow holders of elliptical or circular shape with a diameter of at least 30 mm must be installed.They are fastened along the eaves under the second transverse step of the metal tile or at the level of the bearing wall of the house. In order to ensure the reliability of the installation of the snow catcher supports, the screws should be fixed no closer than 2 cm from the edge of the batten.
  • Soffits. For filing cornices are used plastic or metal panels, soffits, which are mounted horizontally using G-or F-profiles. To ensure the ventilation of the roofing space, it is better to use spotlights equipped with perforations.
  • Drain. When using a frontal board for arranging the eaves overhang, the brackets of the drainage system must be fixed on the frontal plate with a step of 600 mm. Drain channels are installed on the brackets.





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